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PROTAGONIST / HEROES BEYOND THE LIMITS

Q. And counterfeiters to increase frauds. Q. In short, we risk a future without wool?
A. Absolutely, with the risk of debasing a historic wool. But the A. The reality is that we must think carefully to prevent the
main problem is that the growth in herd sizes is creating enor- future bringing nasty surprises. In particular, industry has to
mous environmental problems. As you know, goats love eating reconsider certain canons. Today the cost of raw materials as
grass right down to the roots, so any increase in their num- a percentage of the final price of a haute couture garment is
bers causes an insidious drought effect. To this is added the ef- minimal, almost ridiculous. Most of the investment, rightly,
fect of the development of mining industries, which increase goes on marketing, promotion, fashion shows and everything
pollution and further reduce the area available for breeding. associated with the object. But it is a mistake to neglect the
Q. And perhaps working in the mining industry pays better, base of the product and the men and women who work it.
too. Or does it? Q. Do your colleagues share your views?
A. Actually, Mongolian farmers make quite good money. But A. Absolutely. I often speak to Italian and English business-
paradoxically this increases the dangers to the future of the people. The problem is well known. But we represent only a
sector. It is an extremely hard occupation, and it allows no small part, certainly not the strongest, of the cycle. It is vital
holidays or days off, even when the temper- to involve all the others, starting with the
ature is above 50 degrees in the desert or distribution.
when it drops well below zero during the } There is a risk that Q. Otherwise?
tempestuous winters. And once they reach there will be no more A. We risk losing an age-old heritage. It is a
a certain standard of living, farmers tend to wool in future because question of price, but also of prospects and
encourage their children to do something it’s more profitable to incentives for young people so that they do
else. And so young Mongolians go to uni- rear cattle than sheep not lose the spirit of their fathers. Let me
versity and aspire to finding a job in a bank repeat; the thing that struck me most in my
in one of the major cities like Ulan Bator, travels around the world is the passion and
Shanghai or Singapore. pride that animates breeders of all latitudes, including the
Q. That is an understandable phenomenon, similar to that Andes, where they have managed to save the vicuña from ex-
which occurred in rural societies in the West. But the system tinction. It is great pride that motivates their sacrifices; much
has weathered the advance of progress. Just look at Australia more than desire for money. But passing on this passion to
or New Zealand. Is it not so? the young is difficult without proper social consideration. We
A. There are serious problems there, too, even if they are of a try to help by telling the adventure of these proud men, who
different nature. In recent years the price of wool has fallen a provide us with magnificent fabrics.
great deal compared to the prices of other raw materials such Q. Speaking of which, is wool better or worse today than it
as cotton. Granted, in Australia the system hangs on, thanks was 20 years ago?
to the large profits accumulated in the past. But these days it A. Technology allows us to create extraordinary fabrics that are
is more profitable to rear beef cattle than to keep sheep for ever-lighter and more hard-wearing. However, wool is a little
wool. And the pastures are shrinking in many historic regions, bit like wine; a lot depends on the soil or the climate. Increas-
including the magnificent fields of Shetland. ing drought, for example, has definitely weakened the fibres.

Above, from left, Tumenjargal and his wife check the white cashmere gathered in the Gobi desert; Dominic Dormeuil with some mohair goats in Camdeboo,
South Africa. Other page, from top, left, Camdeboo; Guy Mead surveys his farm in Dingle Burn, New Zealand; shearing a goat; two musk oxen face off;
a Saxon-strain merino goat; a colourful Peruvian; gathering tufts of qiviut wool left by musk oxen during moulting; a sheep and a sheepdog in New Zealand.

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